🔗 Share this article Each Chef Ought to Train At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Eatery Earns Fourth on List of London’s Best Restaurants. Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. However, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of north London. A Unexpected Honour The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has made the family totally surprised. “I am totally surprised,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble restaurant earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list. The Character of Modesty This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner. A Star Offering: Tantuni Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture. The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside. The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony. Other Than the Basic Tantuni Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”. When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet profile. Rising Above the Titans Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations. While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount. The Philosophy of Heart The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner. “I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.” This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”. A Journey of Hard Work In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son. A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work. “Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says. An Achievement for the Culture This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.